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Namibia, your self-guided road-trip

Bijgewerkt op: 24 mei 2023

Are you dreaming of an affordable African safari trip? Then, we might have the perfect itinerary for you. But first, we'll give you more information about all the places we have been to.

Zebras in Etosha national park
Zebras in Etosha

PRACTICAL STUFF

Valuta: They use Namibian dollars. for example 1.00 US Dollar = 15.53 Namibian Dollars and 1.00 Euro = 17.57 Namibian Dollars. To see the present currency go to: converter.comhttps://www.xe.com/currencyconverter/convert/?Amount=1&From=EUR&To=NAD The road: 90% is a gravel road. But with a 4x4, you can get everywhere you want. On the other hand, they drive on the left side of the road. Thanks to the fact there's little traffic, you'll be fine! Language: English is widely spoken Malaria: Malaria risk is present throughout the year but highest from November to June in the north and northeastern regions of the country, including Omaheke. Malaria preventive measures are essential. There is low to no risk of malaria in all other areas, including the Skeleton Coast. Navigation: download African for tracks or maps.me on your phone. Otherwise, you'll get lost. (; Mimi's tip: Starting from the South to the North is best when visiting Namibia. In the South, there isn't a lot of wildlife compared to Etosha (the North part). So if you don't want to spoil your eyes from the beginning, start from the South of Namibia. Luggage: make sure to bring your own binoculars & mosquito repeller (; Safe? Namibia is one of the safest countries in Africa. We never felt scared. The only thing you have to deal with is poverty. Some people come to your car and ask for water, money, or food. We decided never to give money but give something to eat instead.


This is a relaxed itinerary road trip through Namibia:

Arriving in Windhoek

(depending on your flight, book a hotel to rest or drive straight to the fish river canyon).

2 night

Fish river Lodge

​1 night

Aus

1 night

Namidrand nature reserve

2 nights

Sossusvlei

​2 nights

Swakupmond

​2 nights

Spitzkoppe

2 nights

Brandberg

1 night

Grootberg lodge

3 - 4 nights

Etosha

ALTERNATIVE ROUTE

1 night

Hakusembe river lodge

2 nights

Waterberg

2 nights

Namushasha lodge

Going back to Windhoek and take a flight back home

1 night

Chobe river lodge

Going further into Botswana

We started our road trip on the 11th of November and until the 18th of December, outside the high season when the prices drop and there aren't too many people. It was hot but doable, and we didn't have any rain in Namibia. During the last two weeks of our road trip, we drove through Botswana; read everything here.


ARRIVING IN WINDHOEK

When you arrive in Windhoek, you immediately feel the African vibe. And by that, I mean everything goes very slowly compared to stressful Belgium. The airport is small, and because the baggage system was broken, the luggage arrived hand-carried by men.

You can buy a sim card at the airport and withdraw some cash. However, don't stay in Windhoek because there are a lot of tourist traps out there.


HIRE A CAR

We hired our car from 'Savannah car rental,' and they pick you up at the airport. However, I highly recommend booking your car rental with the car rental company itself. It will save you a lot of money.

We enjoyed our trip with Savannah car rental. I'll give you some options if you're unsure which car to rent.

Road-trip Namibia jeep
Namidrand nature reserve

PLACES THAT ARE WORTH YOUR VISIT

1. FISH RIVER CANYON

This canyon is the largest in Africa. It features an enormous ravine, about 160 kilometers long, up to 27 km wide, and 550m deep. The fish river flows sporadically, flooding in late summer and splitting into several pools in winter.

If you like hiking, this is the perfect place for you. The canyon is open for hikers from the 1st of May till the 15th of September. Otherwise, the temperatures are too high, and walking is too dangerous. During this time, you can book a jeep safari (at the Fish river lodge) to guide you into the heart of the canyon, have a picnic, and swim into the fish river. We saw our first mountain zebras, ostriches, springboks, and many other creatures here.

Because it was the beginning of our African road trip, we decided to book a 2-night stay at the Fish River Lodge. Coming out of a stressful period, this was the perfect beginning of our vacation.

They serve a high-quality 3-course meal in the evening in a romantic setting. If you're picky about your table seating, reserve a table in advance.


2. AUS

Most people visit Aus because of the coastal town of Lüderitz. We decided to skip the coastal town and use Aus as a camping stop for our next destination. It's a 4-hour drive from the fish river canyon to Aus. We decided to have a lazy forenoon at the Fish river lodge and drive through the day's hottest hours. Pretty smart if you ask me. (;

We arrived at the Garub waterhole around 4 pm and saw a group of wild horses drinking. These wild horses are believed to have survived the harsh desert conditions. The origin of these horses has many theories. But they are probably offsprings of the South African expeditionary forces horses that dispersed into to desert after a German air attack during World War I.

The best chance of spotting wild horses is at The Garub waterhole. This waterhole is artificial. The wild horses come to the reservoir, take a sip, and disappear into the desert. They can live days without drinking. Insane, right?

If you're interested in visiting Lüderitz, specifically the ghost town Kolmanskop, make sure you see it in the morning. After 1 pm, it's closed.

But the best part of Aus was our campsite. It's definitely worth your time!


3. NAMIDRAND NATURE RESERVE

It's a 3.5-hour drive from Aus to the reserve. It's one of Southern Africa's largest private nature reserves. The purpose was to develop a sanctuary free of fences so that the wildlife could once again roam their habitat unhindered. Four different habitats are found on the reserve: dunes, sandy plains, mountains, and gravel plains. It's a spectacular landscape with a large population of Oryx and Springbok. Other large mammals include kudu, Hartman's and Burchell's zebra, giraffe, klipspringer, steenbok,.. can also be seen here. Predators include leopard, spotted and brown hyena, black-backed jackal, and aardwolf,.. are not that common to spot. But do live in the reserve.

You must have a campsite reservation if you want to visit the park. To find more information about our favorite place, click here. We booked a camping spot at the NamidRand Family hideout. It was our first wild-wild camping experience without any fences. The camping spaces are spread around the whole reserve. Therefore you'll have a lot of privacy. Our camping spot came with a waterhole in front of us. Some springboks and oryx went for a drink during the sunset. It was just magical.

Springbok
Springbok

4. SOSSUSVLEI

It's less than a 2-hour drive from the Namidrand nature reserve and a must-do when visiting Namibia.

First, we stopped at the Sesriem Canyon. This canyon is 30m deep and stretches for about 3km before it becomes a regular river bed again. Although It's not as impressive as the Fish river canyon, it's a nice place to see.

We traveled in November, and during this time, it was smoking hot outside. It's best to plan your activities during the morning because it gets boiling in the afternoon. We booked a campsite at the 'Sesriem Oshana camp.' I totally recommend this campsite. It's clean, and it has a nice view. It doesn't have a pool, but they use the pool of the other campsite, 'Sesriem campsite' (just a 300-meter walk). There are only two campsites inside the park and one lodge. If your budget is more extensive and you love some luxury, go for the 'dead valley lodge.'

You can leave before everyone else when you sleep inside the Sossusvlei area. If you don't care about this, book a hotel/campsite outside the park, it will be cheaper.

We left at 5.15 am and arrived at the Deadvlei around 6 am. The road to the Deadvlei is tarred, except for the last 4km is deep sand. Lower your tire pressure to 1.3, highspeed 4x4 second gear, and keep on going, don't stop! If you do this, you'll manage it. If you're easily scared, park your car 4 km before the Deadvlei and take the shuttle bus.

We visited Deadvlei first because most people visit Dune 45 first. So you'll have the whole Deadvlei to yourself. Afterward, you can climb the big daddy dune. This dune reaches over 300 meters and is the highest dune in the park. For sunset, go for the Elim dune, the closest dune to the gate.


5. SWAKUPMOND

Prepare yourself. It's a lot colder at Swakup. But it will do you good. (; There's a lot to do in Swakup. Honestly, choosing from all the options they offer is challenging. We were only sure of the self-drive course in the dunes. So I contacted John. He lives in Swakup and knows the dunes like nobody else. First, he will guide you through small ones, and when he thinks you're ready, he let you drive the high dunes under his watch. After that, you'll go in your car and be in connection with John all the time. His phone number is +264 81 295 3227, and you can send him via Whatsapp and book directly with him. This will save you a lot of money. Booking in advance is recommended. This activity is in Walvisbay; it's a 30-minute drive from Swakup. You can see flamingos, sea lions, and the pink lake in this area.

Activities such as quad driving in the dunes, skydiving, sea kayaking, .. are also trendy here.

We decided to camp in Swakup because this town offers more than Walvisbay. Walvisbay has more of an industrial look and focuses on the fish harbor. So we booked a camp space at the beach: 'Tiger Reef campsite.' It's 19 euros per night for two people. The campsite itself is pretty alright. Basic but good.

Restaurants you can't miss: the village cafe (our favorite lunch spot), Gabriele's, where you can find the best pizza in Namibia, The Tug (make reservations at least a week before you go), Bar Zonder Naam (It's a wine bar), farmhouse deli for breakfast and brewer & butcher for beer and a good meal. Mimi's tip: Make sure you withdraw enough money in this city. Because the first ATM you'll come across will be at the Palmweg, that's another 500 km further. (; Extra tip: Don't look rich in Swakup. This city is a popular tourist destination; some people will exploit you. But, don't worry, the city is safe. Just pay attention.

6. SPITZKOPPE

One of our favorite places in Namibia. The community operates this magnificent camping area. So sleeping here means helping the community. First, you'll get a map at the reception with all the camping sites and places where local guides wait for you to show you around. Then, for 80 Namibian dollars per person, they offer you to see the rock paintings and provide the necessary information. You can also ask for a private walk or to climb the Spitzkoppe mountain.

Our favorite campsite pick is 'Swakup B' because of its remoteness. But any campsite will do the trick. The reception lady will tell you to put your chair and table on the camp spot of your choice, so people can see this campsite is taken. I would not recommend this. Because someone's chair has been stolen and our drying rack with towels was gone too. If your location is taken, find another one. They're all beautiful.

Spitzkoppe is famous for its movies. For example, God must be crazy, time flies, mad mex, and 10000 before Christ were all filmed here. It will be fun to see one of these movies before you go. (;

There is a fence around the Spitzkoppe area. This fence is because the leopards won't eat the livestock of the people. Therefore you'll share your camp space with the leopards and mountain dassies;... Don't worry; seeing a leopard is very rare. We only saw one for five weeks in Africa. The campsite is basic. No shower, no electricity. Just a non-flushable toilet. There used to be some rock pools, but they aren't there anymore. Our guide told us that the rock pools were dangerous to the Zebras because they had found a zebra dead in one of the pools. So nowadays, they keep them dry.


By the way, Namibia has the most beautiful sunsets on the planet!

7. BRANDBERG

If you have plenty of time, you can visit Brandberg. It's a one-hour walk to the white lady painting, and this is a 4000-year-old rock painting. The best time to visit will be during the morning. Otherwise, you'll be very hot. (;

During the winter months and for the adventurous souls, you can go for a long walk or climb the Brandberg. This will take days, and you'll need a guide.

After our walk, we searched the Ugab River for the desert elephant. We got lucky. After 2 hours of tracking his poo and footprints, we finally found a big bull.

We camped at the Daureb Isib Campsite. It's clean, it has a pool, the staff is friendly, and they have a cozy little restaurant. The next day we headed to Madisa Camp. They offer tours to see the desert elephant. But when we arrived, the reception lady told us the elephants were too far away, and we had a 25 % chance of seeing them. Because we already tracked one down, we decided to have a relaxing afternoon, hang by the pool, order a rock shandy (a must-try Namibian lemonade), and instead of making our dinner, we participated in the Camp's BBQ. If you want to camp here, make sure you bring enough cash. They don't have any ATMs around.


8. GROOTBERG

Well rested, we woke up and started our 2.5-hour drive to Grootberg. To make this ride more fun, you can stop by Twyfelfontein, the burnt mountain, and the petrified forest. We didn't do any of them because we ran out of cash, so don't make the same mistake. (;

On our way to Grootberg Lodge, we bumped into many wild desert elephants. Lucky us! It was a whole family of 8 enjoying the shades of the trees.

The Grootberg Lodge is famous for its black rhino safaris. But, unfortunately, it's tough to see a black rhino in the wild because of the poaching that's still going on as a consequence of the Chinese using the rhino's horn to make powder to heal their penis problems.

Somehow we agreed not to do the safari. The reason for this was our budget, the hours it takes to find a wild rhino, and we had big hopes for Etosha. Therefore we took another resting day in this fantastic lodge!


9. ETOSHA

One of the highlights of Namibia and a must-do when visiting Namibia.

We stayed three nights and four days in the park. You must pay a fee for 24 hours when you enter the park. For example, when you enter the park on a Saturday at 1 pm, they expect you to leave on Sunday at the same time with a gap of 2 hours. To be exact, you need to exit Etosha before 3 pm. So plan it well. (;

If you want to sleep in the park, you must make reservations in advance. You'll have to show your arrangements at the park entrance, so without a booking, you'll not get a permit for four days, and you'll have to exit the park every day. This takes a lot of time, so don't be messy and make your reservations. The park has four accommodations, and they get packed up quickly, so book the camp spot in advance if possible.

We entered through the Galton Gate. It was a smooth entry into the park. We showed them our reserved camp spots and paid our fees. You can buy a 'Map Of Etosha' at the reception gate. It's pretty expansive, so here's a link you can download: https://www.honeyguidepublications.com/maps/etosha.

(thank me later) (; Here's the price list: (we visited in 2022)

  • Adults (foreign) is NAD 150-00 per adult per day

  • Adults (SADC) is NAD 100-00 per adult per day

  • Adults (Namibian) is NAD 50-00 per adult per day

  • Children under 16 years are free of charge

  • Vehicles with ten seats or fewer are NAD 50-00 per vehicle per day

  • Vehicles with 11-25 seats are NAD 100-00 per vehicle per day

  • Vehicles with 26-50 seats are NAD 400-00 per vehicle per day

  • Vehicles with 51+ seats are NAD 700-00 per vehicle per day

Mimi's tip: driving yourself around in Etosha is nice, but it's very exhausting. You'll sleep like a baby in no time every evening. Therefore it's nice to book a guided safari once in a while. We booked a 'night safari.' This is pretty awesome because no one else is allowed in the park after sunset. You can book the safari at the reception of your accommodation.

Animals running in Etosha national park

Read more about our camping sites here.


10. CAPRIVI STRIP

Your Namibian journey is only complete when you include the Caprivi strip. So many people skip this part, but the contrast between dry and wetlands can't be more significant than here. It's so wonderful to observe the different landscapes.

We were heading to Botswana as well. In that way, it's the perfect route through the Caprivi. After three weeks of camping, we decided to do some proper lodging in this area; honestly, it was the best decision of our whole vacation. Basic camping is cool in Namibia, but occasionally, I need some luxury. For all those people on a budget, I'll include some affordable campsites later on. (;


WE ARRIVED IN PARADISE: 'The Hakusembe river lodge.' It has that tropical feeling that I was missing. This lodge is located next to the Hakusembe River. Therefore it has a tropical, green vibe. Different from the rest that we had seen so far. We planned a boat cruise on the river, but the river wasn't high enough because the rain hadn't started yet in Angola. Not a problem for us; the lodge is charming. It has a magnificent pool and a romantic candlelight dinner beside the river, so our day was filled in no time. There is much wildlife to be found around this region. Just by chilling next to the river, we saw a crocodile, a lizard, and some otters.

Mimi's tip: if you drive through the Caprivi and your end destination is Botswana. It's best to buy your firewood here. It's a small village, and they stock firewood in front of their houses. So you can stop without any pressure of buying. The owner of the wood will appear in no time. Indeed, the cheapest and best wood we have found throughout Namibia and Botswana!

After one night of rest at the Hakusembe river lodge, book two nights in the 'Namushasha Lodge.' This was our favorite lodge in Namibia! We did a lot of activities around this place, and we saw our very first leopard there. I remember having tears in my eyes when I saw that incredible creature. We not only saw a leopard, but we also saw our very first hippos (a lot of them) and wild dogs!


Our last night in Namibia before heading into Botswana was at the 'Chobe River Camp.' They have a gorgeous pool with a river view, and Botswana is situated on the other side of the river—lots of activities to do around this area.


To find out more about our favorite lodges, click here.

Namushasha lodge
Namushasha lodge

Alternative route: when you don't want to visit Caprivi or Botswana, skip the last part and go straight from Etosha to 'Waterberg.' After this, you can drive to Windhoek and take your flight home.


I put much effort into this blog post and hope you like it. If you have any questions, shoot!


Love,

Mimi



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